Summit of Kala Pattar 5545m with Summit of Everest in the Background.

Our expedition began in Kathmandu, Nepal on March 18th this year where we met with our high altitude mountain guide Kristna Thamal , a two time Everest Summiter who promised to get us down in one piece – the kind of assurance you crave as you franticly pack your duffle bag for the long and arduous journey ahead. Having done some previous climbing we had a good idea what to pack and what we might expect along the way – but the excitement and anticipation of coming face to face with Chomolungma or Mount Everest along with attempting a 20,000 ft mountain peak for the first time was electric – Just what we needed after lazing on Thai Beeches and visiting one of Asia’s greatest Treasures “ Ankor Wat ” in Cambodia.

Before we knew it we were on a 12 seater plane on the first leg of the journey from Kathmandu to Lukla – The gate way for many climbers and trekers into the khumbu region of the Himalaya’s.

The airstrip at Lukla is precariously positioned on the side of a mountain range – not for the faint hearted .. the runway itself is built at a 15 degree slope as this helps the plane come to a halt before its crashes into the mountains in front.

As we emerged from the airport 2800m to begin our trek we meet “Puna” – Our Sherpa who would spend the next 18 days with us carrying out large expedition bag which weighed in at a hefty 60 Kg … More that the weight of Puna himself !! After a warm bowl of soup in the town of Lukla we headed off following the footsteps of Edmond Hillary himself and even more recently Irish climbers such as Pat Falvey and Gavin Bates. Already you could feel your heart pounding as you walked through the cold crisp air that surrounded us.

Our plan was to reach the summit of Kala Pattar 5545m , overlooking Everest Base Camp – where we would get spectacular views of the South West face of Everest , and then go on to summit Island Peak 6189m.

Apart from obvious challenges such as freezing Temperatures and crevasses on Island Peak ; our main concern for most of the expedition was Altitude Sickness  - which occurs if you ascend a mountain quicker that the time it takes your body to adjust.  The general rule is not to ascend more that 300m per day and that after 3 days you should stop for one night to acclimatise, climbing high and sleeping low. Being fit and drinking water regularly also helps but is not a guarantee.

As it turned out we were both victims. Caroline had mild symptoms at 3500m and I had a sleepless night at 4500 m just before we headed off at 5 am for Everest base Camp. On both occasions we spent an extra night where we were to give our bodies a chance to adjust to the falling oxygen levels. At Kala Pattar the Oxygen levels are down to 60% of sea level while on Island Peak your down to less than 50%.

The morning we headed for kala Pattar – Base Camp I didn’t think I would make it – and by right shouldn’t have even tried as my head was still pounding and I couldn’t walk straight. As I bounced off the walls in the hut at 5am our Guide asked me if i was alright to which I replied “ Fantastic “ !! With that we pulled on the woolly hats and headed off for the 12 hour final and steep push up to the summit of Kala Pattar 5545m. En route we stopped for soup at the final lodge on this trail called Gorak Shep 5100m – Which was the original Base Camp that Tzening and Hilliary used in 1953. The plan was to have some soup here to warm us up before we took on the steep push to the summit – but with no appetite for food we took an opportunity to watch people stumble around bumping in to each other.

This was it - The Final push to reach the summit of Kala Pattar 5545m – and ponder over at Everest itself! As Billy Connolly one said “ Wild horses wouldn’t stop “ us now and before we knew it we were on top – Surrounded by Prayer flags as we gazed over at Everest and the Khumbu Ice Fall. As I looked over intensely at Everest – even picking out features such as the south col and the Hillary step – I heard the crash of an avalanche from the 7000m mountain Pumori behind – A stark reminder of the dangers that these mountains can un lock without a moments notice.

From here we spent 2 days slowly trekking back down to a place called Dingboche 4200m. From here we would begin our ascent of Island Peak 6189m – The bit we were waiting for ….  in anticipation !

Happy that we achieved our first goal of reaching Everest Base Camp we now set our sights on the Icing on the Cake ( or in this case snow on the mountain ). In climbing to Kala Pattar en route to Island Peak we had managed to acclimatise well as we had been up to 5545 m and came back down to 4200m. This gave us more confidence as we once again ascended into the mountains.

Day twelve and we left Chhukung 4700m for Island Peak Base Camp 5150m. It was time to leave behind us the luxury of the mountain huts and roll out our -40 Degree Sleeping bags in our little yellow tent ! At this point our cook and assistant cook had gone on ahead a few days earlier to set up camp and have a hot brew on when we arrived .. well it was our honeymoon!

En route to Island Peak base Camp at approx 5000m … starting to get chilly!

Island Peak Base camp 5150m … Blue tent is the cook tent.

On arrival at Base Camp we meet our cooks and has some Garlic soup – Good for the altitude. The afternoon was spent practicing rope work ; trying on harnesses and using Jumnars on a nearby ice slope. The main crooks of Island Peak is a 120m Ice wall at 60 degree slope just below the summit. Our guide hammered in some Ice Bars into the nearby ice slopes and we practiced climbing up the rope using Jumnars and abseiling back down. At this point I have to take my hat off to Caroline – no matter what was thrown in her way she kept going and even tough she would not have much snow and ice experience she never stood back.

There was one other group at Base Camp at this time – 8 Germans in all. They were not doing any practice with ropes etc as they said “ we have done all that before “.

The next day was spent resting and acclimatising – and eating and drinking as much as possible. At this point we had both started taking Diamox which helps speed up the acclimatisation process.
By 6 pm it had gotten down to below freezing temperatures as the sun fell – so we hit the tent for a night sleep interrupted on occasions by squawking hawks. 

Forgot the hotwater bottle – so the kettle had to do … Base Camp 5150m.

“Are yee awake” Shouted our guide Krishna at 1 am … as if we would be anything else! – We all know that “ Night hike – Night Hike “ Feeling – Well this was it except you awoke in a freezer. Everything seem to take forever as the cold and altitude played havoc with our movement. An hour had passed before we had all out gear on and on our way to the summit of Island Peak, Before long we could see the trail of head torches in front from the Germans.   We both felt surprisingly strong at this point and started overtaking them. The route was a bit like that of Ben Nevis as it zig zagged over and back through numerous rocky sections until finally we emerged at a point at which we were getting into the snow and ice. As we strapped up our crampons and attached the rope to our harnesses the sun started to peek its head up.

On the way to Island Peak Summit – 7am – Just 2 hrs to go – would we make it ?

Fatigue and altitude threw all they could at us as we gazed into the expanse of snow and ice – Caroline began to have second thoughts as our guide told her to follow his footsteps otherwise she would fall into a crevasse … but when she saw the disappointment on my face that we might have to return – she took a deep breath and fought on.  Progress was slow as the oxygen levels dropped and the mode of transport changed from walking to plodding through heavy snow. Most of the Crevasses were small enough in size to step over – while some were connected by snow bridges – on which we didn’t delay.

Summit of Island Peak in the distance … Can you spot the 2 climbers on the ice wall ?

By 8 am we were nearly there – just faced with this 120 m ice wall , one last 50 m push up and we were there – simple !

Caroline Heading up the Ice Wall on Island Peak at 6000m.

The ice wall had 2 50m ropes on it which were old and damaged so we could only use them one at a time – ensuring that we had our own fixed points with crampons and ice axe in case they would break – So Caroline went first as I could always catch her …. Once the Jumnar was connected to the rope it was a case of pushing and pulling your way to the top.
After much puffing and panting we made it to the top of the wall – only to see another 50 m ridge to the summit.

Looking down from the top of the ice wall … as some climbers make there way up.

After catching our breaths we made one final push to the summit and by 9 am we had reached our goal – and stood proudly on the summit of Island Peak 6189m. Once we clipped out ropes into a safety point on the summit we hugged and gazed around as we stood 6km high and 6km due south of Everest itself.

Caroline and Brendan Murray on the Summit of Island Peak 6189m or 20325ft. Now how the hell will we get back down !!

It was 9 am and we had made it … the weather was great with Blue skies and we could see Ama Dablam , Makalu and Lhotse which shouldered Everest on the other side.

Most accidents’ occur descending mountains so we were mindful on the way down that we must concentrate at all times especially at these heights. On the way we meet 3 of the Germans coming up – 5 had turned back.

Caroline Decending with our Mountain Guide Khristna above her.

All that was left for us to do was to head back down the Khumbu valley which we did with a smile on our faces having reached our Goal. There’s nothing better than heading down a mountain watching people struggling on the way up – don’t you agree !!

Yak ! - One of the lower paid sherpas taking some climbers gear to Everest Base Camp.

All in all it was 18 days well spent and ones that we will not forget in a long time – I guess in the true spirit of Scouting you should always raise the bar and take on a challenge – you never know where you might end up!

If you fancy trekking in the Himalayas – which I’m sure you will if you have read this far – Then contact me on 087 2347808 or e-mail This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it for details.